Gospel of fashion and designing according to Folake Majin

Folake Majin, a mother of six and founder of Schon Afrique, a fashion outfit in Lagos, recently partnered with MTN Nigeria to stage a show where two of her daughters introduced a range of new clothing. In this interview with NIKE SOTADE she talks about the challenges of the industry, why it needs more sponsors, the huge potential and her personal journey into the industry. Excerpts.

How did you find yourself in the fashion industry?

I was a full time housewife for several years before I ventured into the industry. However, from my university days, I enjoyed designing my own clothes because I valued my unique look. I don’t like to ape trends. I always gave my dressmakers my designs to make. So, naturally when I thought of a career after raising my six children, being a fashion designer was the natural choice and I knew that I would make a success of it.

 What informed the choice of name, Schon Afrique?

I speak French and German, too. Schon in German means beautiful and Afrique is the French word for Africa. So, I married the two words, which mean Beautiful Africa.

 Your dreams and aspirations for Schon Afrique

It will be really nice to have a company that outlives you. A company financially strong, with solid structures on ground, a company that is not a one-man show; one that will stand the test of time and remain unshakeable, in good times or bad times.

What would you say inspires your designs?

I aim at visually stunning, glamorous clothes that are fit for royalty, captains of industry, media gurus, stars and lovers of high fashion. I am inspired by what will appeal to my clients from lovely fabrics to accessories, colours and other influences I pick here and there.

 Why the focus on that aspect of designing?

I focus on occasion clothes, and mainly for that unforgettable entrance — Unique clothes, the glitter, and the dazzle yet understated. I absolutely detest gaudy outfits. I am very comfortable with doing clothes for special occasions because I make designs that are painstakingly detailed.

 Your target market

Naturally, women who are not afraid of standing out or being admired. Women who love fashion and are thrilled byendless creativity, women who love the one-offs created exclusively for them.

 What inspired the designs of your last show?

It was a professionally rewarding experience. Doing a collection with my daughters was a unique angle to the show. This was not about hype, but about three related designers putting up distinctly different collections. Also, we introduced another novelty — a King and Queen as comperes. My collection had a royal theme, Glamour, visually pleasing clothes, timeless and understated elegance. I also wanted a more ready to wear collection.

What was it like taking your daughters to where they are right now?

I will not say that I tutored them directly. They have their God-given talents, which eventually got expressed. But along the line they must have been influenced by what I did. As clearly shown in their collection for the fashion show they are in a class of time! My daughters, Patigi, referred to as Miss Majin by many, created the Breathless Experience Collection for the show while Gogo created GM4FM collections. You saw how the audience received these collections, they were all in awe. I am really proud of them.

 Have you taken part in shows for your collections apart from the ones you organise personally?

Yes I have, with “Nigeria fashion show” in Lagos and Abuja. A most memorable one was when City People honoured me a couple of years back. It was a fantastic show also well attended by fashion heavyweights, first ladies, senators and captains of industry.

 Do you have a market for your clothes outside Nigeria?

I stand to be corrected, but I don’t believe we have any resident Nigerian designer that is truly international in the real sense of the word. Do we have outlets in other countries like the Gucci or the Pradas? Are we in major departmental stores like Selfridges, Macys? To compete with international designers need more than hype or the occasional B list star wearing a designer’s outfits. It takes more than a rare mention in an international magazine or participating in international fashion shows. It requires a complete makeover of our fashion industry, proper structure, deliberate government participation and huge finance. I am happy that Duro Olowu, a Nigerian designer based abroad has been able to break into the mainstream international fashion scene.

 Describe the Nigerian fashion industry

From a steady rise, it has exploded in recent times. Lots and lots of the younger generation are caught up in this explosion. Graduates in all professions are venturing into all areas of fashion such as modeling, photography, apparel design, shoes and bags etc. The media have had a lot to do with the visibility of trends in fashion. We even have many fashion magazines that feature only glamorously dressed ladies at parties and events. Lots of fashion shows have come up here and abroad and all these have created profound interest in fashion in recent times, encouraging sponsorships deals by communication companies such as MTN, and Banks like BOI (Bank of industry). Media houses likeThisday’s Arise, City People’s many yearly events and Genevieve’s yearly “pink ball” have promoted designers and their fashion houses.

 Is it profitable doing business here?

Yes and no. Without being equipped with the passion, knowledge and skill it can be an absolute disaster. Many have started the fashion business with state of the art equipment only to close down in a matter of months. With skilled workers, creativity, passion for the job and visibility I can confidently say it can be profitable. Give your client what they want, churn out creative, beautiful designs from time to time, keep their interest going, give value for money and you will definitely keep your clientele. And because beautiful clothes are self-advertising, you will get more clients to keep the business going.

Similarities and differences between the fashion industries in developed nations and that of Nigeria?

Similarities are obvious; we have our very talented designers, tailors, fashion shows, features in magazines, and few fashion training schools. The glamour, the excitement. The glaring difference is in the sheer size of the fashion industry in the developed world. There you have a well-structured industry with highly specialized manpower at every level — from interpretation of designs, pattern drafters, cutters, marketers and promoters to informed fashion critics etc. Most of the fashion houses can hire and fire their creative designers and not be affected negatively. Also talented designers have heavy backing from government or moneybags who support designers and invest in them. Designers are therefore at more liberty to stretch their creative barriers. The industry there is a multibillion dollar one. Many of the bigger brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci are far richer than some African states! Recently when Italy’s ancient cultural relics were in dire need of restoration and their culture ministry was unable to fund renovations it was the fashion houses that came to the rescue. Renzo Rosso of Diesel, Miuccia and Fondazine Prada of Prada, Diego Della Valle of Tods and Gucci all scrambled to help by donating several millions of dollars.  For example, Tod alone gave $ 34 million to save the Coliseum, Rome’s most famous relic. I doubt if all top designers here can save the National Theatre today if it collapses.

 What are the challenges you face doing business in Nigeria?

It is definitely tough in Nigeria; the major problem is lack of constant electricity; at least one standby generator is absolutely compulsory. Getting professionals is also another area of challenge. Many designers have to import professionals who are more exposed and have better work ethics than many here from the west coast of Africa and even the far east of Asia to move their business forward. Our tailors, cutters need to be patient enough to learn the job properly instead of rushing to establish and not make any serious impact or profit because of poorly finished clothes. Luckily, we have many more training schools for these now. At Schon Afrique, we train our staff in these areas of specialisation. When aspiring designers want to come to me for mentoring, I tell them to go to training schools first. We have Nobel, Ginnani and a few other training schools. They need to be professionally equipped with some knowledge of pattern making, drafting etc. to succeed. Many design houses pack up soon after because the workers have no respect for ignorant bosses and hold them to ransom. Another area of challenge is finance. To break into big time fashion now demands capital. Getting media attention, sponsors, professionals etc is not an easy feat. It is getting more capital intensive to stand out and make it big time.

 How do you balance your personal life and your job?

It is indeed very time consuming. But I strive to create a balance otherwise work will be overwhelming and capable of creating problems at home. I make a conscious effort to close early (latest 6pm) and rarely take express jobs that overstretch me.